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How did you correct your problem ,Jeff.? I have been too busy to call tech support. I must and will do that…if for no other reason than to be mystified and extend to them a legitamate complaint. I used a knock off brand cell replaced last year which performed well…last year. My wife is contemplating an entire new unit.

Would you guys care to offer a replacement system…. Jeff, Im a consumer just like you and probably just as frustrated. Is your sytem running ,how are you chlorinating? This isn a crappy junky unit…Hayward should be ashamed to put something like this out. Have had my unit 3 months and suddenly not working…. What a rip…. My advice…. Gordon I understand your frustration. If your unit is not operating properly have you considered calling the manufacturer Hayward Customer Service They can test the cell to determine if it is failing.

Remember your salt levels need to be around to produce chlorine. Also check if your flow sensor is installed correctly. Just came back to Fl to find my Aqua Rite 20 is not working. I have power to the unit and the 20amp fuse is good, but no workey. No LED readout. Blown board??

Mike in my experience when your looking to replace circuit boards sometimes its a good idea to fork lift the entire unit. Boards tend to be very expensive and there may be multiple problems that are contributing to the issue. Have you checked the power from the transformer yet? Living in warmer climates can create a problem overheating the power source. Replacing a transformer is significantly less expensive and may be the issue if your not getting the proper voltage readings. Vaughn redsquarepools.

After removing the board I could see on the back that it was fried. Perhaps I stumbled on a better way to control my pool chemistry. Alternate between the chlorine generator and using the chlorine tablets to help regulate cyanuric acid levels.

Now , if i can just get my calcium hardness up! I would like to get rid of my current Goldline aqua Rite SW system and upgrade. Can you suggest the best replacement for a 20k gal pool and spa? Before you consider removing the the Goldline system, could you provide me some feedback what issues you are experiencing with the current system?

Thanks, Vaughn. I have a old Aqua rite 20 with the T-cell 5. The backside was black from the line power v side to the phone jack side. Troubleshooting results are 24vac between the 2 yel wires off the transformer. Also 23v yel on board to yel on bottom rectifier.

If you had your salt chlorinator for years, your current limiter may be bad. Its the black thing on the for upper righthand side that is spaped like a black quarter shaped object. They usually go bad do to rot. The current limiter if bad will not illuminate power light or it goes out after seconds. You can change the 20A yellow ATO fuse for a buck or so for piece of mind.

The current limiter can be brought at Digikey on the web part number ND for 6. You can unsolder the old and insert the new and resolder… its really that easy. After installing, and reattach all wire connectors, the power light will illuminate when turning on. Why would the cell only start generating in service mode?

I switched two cells , Both only work in service mode. When turned on in Auto,the flow light is only on for a second then off. It would help locating the troubles more precisely. After all, we own the thing we paid a good price for. Claude are you looking for electrical schematics?

Can you be more specific with your line of questions? Give me the issue or the outcome you hope to achieve. I will investigate and escalate with engineering contacts at Hayward for more clarity. Does anyone know the specs quarter sized on the resistor on the board? The only numbers on it are SL32 2R Can you translate that into a part or reference number so I cabn buy the part, mine is fried.

Thx RB. Claude, Thank you for your feedback! Vaughn Berger Vaughn redsquarepools. Thanks for the parts info, ordered it from DigiKey, replaced it today and all is up and running. I appreciate the help. I was first getting erratic salt readings, so I replaced the T salt cell, everything was good for about a week, then I had no flow so I replaced the flow switch and again everything was good for a few days, last evening I put the system on super-chlorinate normal demand is set at on dial , then this morning I have no green generating lights.

I understand your frustration regarding your salt cell system. There are things that you can do to prolong the life of a salt cell, here are a few options to consider:. Water Chemistry. Balancing your body of water goes beyond simply maintaining pH and Free Chlorine levels every week. Take a look at the post about Langelier Saturation Index. Cleaning Cell. I recommend actively inspecting the internal blades within the salt cell at least every other month during the Spring and Summer Seasons.

What you are looking for is calcium that bridges between the blades. If bridging occurs, this can have adverse effects on the operation and longevity of a salt cell. If you are going to clean the cell, never submerge the cell as this will damage the circuitry. Water and acid ratio, water first, then acid into a small pail.

Pour the mixture into the open end of the cell making sure not to spill over the outside of the cell. Leave at least 2 inches at the top to accommodate for bubbles, foam and gas released. Lean the cell upright allowing to soak for minutes. Afterwards, pour out mixture, rinse the inside blades and inspect. If blades still show signs of calcium repeat process again. Cold Season Cell Replacement.

This will prolong the longevity of the salt cell. Note that when disconnecting the salt cell from the control box to ALWAYS shut off all power at the breaker to avoid damaging the cell circuitry. When re-installing, repeat the same process, shutting off all power to the system at the breaker. Replacement Parts. Here is a document that outlines all replacement parts for the various Hayward Salt Cell Systems.

Other AquaRite Manuals. I noticed my unit showing hot with a bunch of lights on red green yellow. Today my unit showed COLD at times when it is 90degrees water temp. It seems to be producing chlorine as lights are blinking. I restarted and left door open and cold stayed off ran fine for a few hours. When I previously restarted and watched for a few minutes all was fine so i closed door. After opening door a few hours later COLD would show up. I just noticed my pool getting cloudy after 3 years of use, went to generator and the lights were on then went off then back on then off again like something on the circuit board was going in and out, then its off with the letters CoLd across the display now?

Any help for this? Most manufactures designs of salt cell systems do not produce chlorine when water is below 60F. Search google for the owners manual and review the fine print. There is a far less need for sanitizer since algae growth is suspended during winter operations.

The caveat here is if you use your heater on a regular basis and maintain higher temps during the the cold season. Test your water with a water balance kit to determine the chemical levels, keeping your sanitizer, pH and Alkalinity balanced.

Note: if your test kit is over 12 months old it is highly recommended to discard and replace with a new kit to achieve reliable readings. Just had the main circuit board replace. The pool water is mot hot, in the other hand it been kind of cool er in South Florida. Any suggestions? Sounds like the temperature gauge that is attached to plumbing by a wire to your control box needs to be replaced. Can you confirm with pictures the configuration of your system?

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